Harmful ingredients
Acrylate Copolymers: Ingredient of Environmental Concerns
Acrylate copolymers are widely used in cosmetics as film-formers and thickeners—but are they safe for skin and the environment? This article unpacks their role, microplastic impact, and regulatory concerns.
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What are Acrylate copolymers?
Acrylate copolymers are synthetic polymers made by chemically combining acrylic acid or methacrylic acid with other monomers. In skincare and cosmetic products, they’re primarily valued for their film-forming, suspending, and texture-enhancing properties.
They appear on ingredient labels under names like:
Acrylates Copolymer
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer
Sodium Polyacrylate
Carbomer (closely related chemically)
Functions in Skincare and Cosmetics
Function | Role in Formulations |
|---|---|
Film-former | Creates a flexible, water-resistant layer on skin or hair |
Thickener | Provides viscosity and gel-like consistency |
Suspending Agent | Stabilizes insoluble particles (e.g., exfoliating beads) |
Emulsion Stabilizer | Prevents separation of oil and water phases |
Oil Control | Used in mattifying primers and gels |
Curl retention | In hair products for hold and frizz control |
Used in:
Sunscreens: Enhance water resistance
Anti-acne gels: Aid delivery and adherence to oily skin
Makeup primers: Smooth skin and blur pores
Moisturizers and lotions: Improve texture
Hair gels and sprays: For long-lasting hold
Peel-off masks: As film-forming agents
Skin Safety Profile
Acrylate copolymers are considered non-toxic and non-irritating for most skin types. According to Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) and the EU Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS), they have a low sensitization risk when properly formulated.
Environmental Impact: Microplastics in Disguise?
Despite their skin compatibility, acrylate copolymers are increasingly scrutinized for their environmental persistence:
These polymers are not biodegradable, and many are classified as solid synthetic polymers—thus contributing to microplastic pollution when rinsed off (e.g., face washes, hair gels).
A 2021 study by UNEP flagged acrylates as microplastic analogs that escape wastewater treatment systems, potentially entering marine ecosystems and being ingested by aquatic life.
Regulatory Action:
European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) and EU Green Deal (2022) have proposed restrictions on intentionally added microplastics, which include solid acrylate copolymers in rinse-off products.
California Microplastics Strategy (2022) calls for limiting microplastic release from cosmetics.
Eco-Conscious Alternatives
For brands and consumers seeking safer alternatives:
Xanthan gum, hydroxyethylcellulose, and aloe-derived biogums as natural thickeners
Polyglutamic acid or biosaccharide gum for film-forming properties
Biodegradable acrylates (under R&D)
References
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Panel. (2012). Safety Assessment of Acrylates Copolymer. https://www.cir-safety.org
UNEP (2021). From Pollution to Solution: A Global Assessment of Marine Litter and Plastic Pollution. https://www.unep.org/resources
European Chemicals Agency (ECHA). (2022). Proposal for Restriction on Microplastics. [https://echa.europa.eu/restrictions-under-consideration]
SCCS (2021). Scientific Advice on Microplastics in Cosmetic Products. [https://ec.europa.eu/health/system/files/2021-04/md_microplastics_cosmetics_en_0.pdf]
California State Water Resources Control Board. (2022). Microplastics Strategy Document. [https://www.waterboards.ca.gov/water_issues/programs/microplastics/]